The Spirit of Brno
There are cities that are flashy, public cities, and cities that are more discreet, private cities. The former strike visitors at first sight - their charms are obvious; the latter grow on them - outsiders have to discover their idiosyncracies. Paris is a prime example of the public city, London of the private. And - no surprise - Brno is, and will probably always remain, a "private" city. But for those with time, and eyes to see, there is much to admire here.
Some people lament the lack of grand, beautiful buildings in Brno. But have they ever stood in Komenskeho namesti and looked about them? As a space, this is one of the greatest triumphs of nineteenth century town planning to be found anywhere. The spaciousness, the harmony that reigns between the various buildings, despite their mixed styles and differing materials, the relationship of the square to St Thomas's Church, the long view down to the obelisk in Denisovy sady, the green backdrop of Spilberk - this is urban civility of a rare order. Besedni dum alone is a small miracle, its serene neo-classicism one of the most accomplished architectural embodiments of the obsessive Romantic dream of the Mediterranean south and the world of Antiquity. If it were situated in Vienna, people would make pilgrimages to view it.
The challenge facing Brno's planners today is not that of inventing some unique new identity for the city, but rather of responding creatively to the very sophisticated - but non-ostentatious - tradition that already marks it, and gives it its distinctive tone.
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